Thursday, May 31, 2007

Puerto Madero and Costanera Sur Eco Preserve

The weather was lovely today, so I went over to Puerto Madero to check out Buenos Aires´downtown waterfront development, which is one of the newest parts of the city, and the nearby ecological preserve.

Puerto Madero

Puerto Madero was the first complete port constructed by the Argentine government. Work began in 1887 and was completed in 1898, although the interconnected dike design and location of the port was not without controversy, and by 1910 the importance of Puerto Madero was no longer operating as its size was insufficient to handle the increase in maritime traffic after the turn of the century, and a new port located further north (Puerto Nuevo) was in the process of being completed. An attempt was made at redeveloping the area, but Puerto Madero was not used again until 1969, when it was made into a military depot by the dictatorship of Juan Carlos Onganía and several subsequent regimes.

Cargo Crane, Puerto Madero
The cargo cranes were left in place around the port.

True redevelopment came in the late 1980s when a public/private corporation was formed to redevelop 170 hectacres of the old port. By the mid 1990s, hotels, shops and residential developments had begun to flood into the port, a process that is still ongoing. Two museums on historic ships, restaurants and shops that face out onto the port. Most of the city´s recent luxury hotel development has occured in Puerto Madero, and there is also a bridge, the Puente Mujer (Women´s Bridge) designed by Santiago Caltrava.


Puente de la Mujer, Santiago Caltrava
View from Dique No. 3

Puente de la Mujer, Santiago Caltrava
View from Bridge looking South


Although there wasn´t a whole lot of activity going on when I strolled through, I can imagine that Puerto Madero would be very lively, if a little soulless, during the summertime.

Costanera Sur Ecological Preserve

To the immediate south of Puerto Madero is Costanera Sur Ecological Preserve, an ecological preserve that started out as a municipal spa for the residents of Buenos Aires. The area opened as a municipal spa in 1918 and was an extremely popular day and night-time destination in the 1920s and 1930s, however by the 1950s its popularity began to slide as many of the bars and candy shops began to deteriorate and were demolished and signs prohibiting swimming in the river due to pollution began to appear.

Costanera Sur Ecological Preserve
View looking back toward Buenos Aires with winter foliage

In the 1970s, a new land reclamation project was initiated, however the development of the reclaimed land never began. By the 1980s, various species of flora and fauna had begun to live in the recreated wetlands, and in 1986 the area was designated an ecological preserve. I walked from the northern entrance, near Puerto Madero´s dike four to the southern entrance, and the experience was unique--as I headed towards the Rio de la Plata, the noise of the city fell away, replaced by the sound of waves lapping against the shore and the occasional songbird.

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